Shepherd’s Bush Market: A Cultural Touchstone

26th September 2024

By Zakiyah Bello

The process of making a union jack is a meticulous one. 31 little puzzle pieces of fabric held together by sovereignty. I think back now to Cornelia Parker’s 2022 exhibit at Tate Britain, she’d presented a short film that I'd had little interest in initially, something I’d neglected to share with my date beside me. A sea of royal blue unfurled elegantly across the table and seemed to cast the whole small room in shadow. Stark white and deep crimson, from certain angles it resembled the flag of France, and from others the imperial shroud of the United States of America. By the end, the screening room was silent. Not in the polite fatigued silence of an unwilling audience but the heavy, pensive kind. It was as though the moment the pieces of fabric became the Union Jack it sat atop us, flowed across the walls and held us tightly beneath its watchful eye. 

Those heavy pieces were likely purchased in a place like this. Under grey sheets of soft rainfall, I imagine a flagmaker weaving between the aromatic food- stalls; past Lebanon and Turkey, all the way to Ethiopia; in search of the famed fineries of the historic marketplace. Shepherd’s Bush market has been a place for one culture to lay shoulder to shoulder with another for over a century. I picture the prospective flagmaker reclining at a Yemeni coffee shop as the stall owners chat animatedly across the aisle; adjacent from a tailor who sits in ruminating silence by her window, walls swathed in the types of bright, beaded fabrics the market is so famous for.

Parker’s exhibition seemed to accentuate the feeling of the fabric, how it could obscure one’s hand behind, or absorb all the light it touches as it flowed from station to station. Quality seems paramount to the pride associated with the profession. Any flagmaker worth their salt would surely be found at’ Classic Textiles’, who’s Liberty Fabrics official retailer certificate sits upon a shelf bursting with vibrant textiles. 

The comprehensive conversation I  had with Aniza at Classic Textiles reminds me of the startling silence of a documentary  following a large fast-fashion retailer, broken into disjointed little vignettes on their youtube channel. One clip has only one word spoken, a collective exclamation of “China!” from a group of influencers on their way to tour the factory sandwiched between montages covered in a royalty-free jingle. The ill-fated trip followed the group through a clinically lit factory, with politely smiling employees sparsely scattered throughout the enormous factory. In one clip, hundreds of dresses hang limp along an assembly line. There are only two variations of dress shown in the clip, and under the harsh factory light, they dangle emaciated above the enraptured group. 

The fabrics of Classic Textiles each stand out despite their vast selection. A red sample flashes in my mind now, woven tightly and embroidered with gold thread that embraces every ray of light it touches. While fast-fashion companies saw a boom in revenue during the pandemic, retailers like Classic Textiles at the market have felt an economic shift. Whether it’s due to the shifting demands of the film industry or the disconcerting dominion of fast-fashion, the question of how to re-acquaint the general population with the means with which their garments are produced rings in my mind still. 

One thing you feel most of all while weaving between the stalls is the weight of the history each corner holds. The place has been touched by iconic productions like ‘Casino Royale’ and legendary artists like ‘The Who’. The history of the market is coveted, a sacred oral history like the parables of old.  Aniza alone was able to list off the lines of succession of each textiles shop along the road; countless stall-owners can trace their roots back decades; passed down with love for generations and displayed proudly like the flags outside many of the stalls. The flag that’s been  made with meticulous, ritualistic attention to detail, its symbolic power entrusted to the types of fabrics that sustain the familial histories of this market. In that screening room the flag looked heavy, but here it flies above the stall before me, a delicate stamp of pride against the slate-grey sky.