Ray Chu Opens Up About Running an LFW Presentation - AW25

As I stepped through the doors of KXC’s King’s House, I was filled with anticipation. Anticipation of how Ray Chu was going to further the story of his brand from the Spring Summer 25 collection back in September, which was one of the strongest of the season for me. Spring Summer was centered around the crinum asiaticum flower, a flower with deep meaning in the country of Taiwan, where Ray is originally from.

As I walked up the stairs, I was greeted with the sound of indistinguishable chatter. Walking into the room where the presentation was held, that chatter intensified, but it also became the perfect accompaniment to the music in the background, and to the nonchalance of the dinner table setting the models were posing around. There was an effortlessness in the tablescape, done by Nalani Julien, it gave the picture of a grazing table at a party. There to be noticed and appreciated, but not the center of attention. The models interacted with it as such, too; picking up a cocktail-filled coupe glass here, perching on a chair there. That effortless nature was further augmented by the clothes: the juxtaposition of 80s hair and makeup, strong suiting, with soft textiles and modern technology like 3D printing.

This collection was smaller than last season, but threads could still be tied between the two. This season Ray continued to be inspired by our ecosystem, this time highlighting blue cypress trees, from which Ray’s Chinese name, Po (柏), is translated.

To learn more about the intricacies of this collection, HOEZINE got to chat to Ray:

Temilayo: How much sleep were you and the team running on the day of the presentation?

Ray Chu: Nothing too crazy this season - 6 hours ish, some might be less.

TB: You held the presentation at King’s House, which is a church building (shoutout to KXC). Was there any reason behind it?

RC: Running a show at London Fashion Week, you always have to keep in mind that it's a big place, and shows are scattered all over the city. I try to keep my show location quite central for that reason. KXC was a great space - the team there were super accommodating, and I think it's quite fun to use venues which aren't necessarily the industry's classic "go-to's".

TB: There's been a lot of chatter about the lack of excitement, due to lack of media capital, for LFW season after season. Do you as an individual feel that directly affecting you? Does that answer change on a brand level?

RC: Inevitably, this has some impact on brands, especially independent ones. However, it also pushes us to be more creative in finding ways to capture attention and engage our audience.

TB: What's your creative process from season to season? Do you draw inspiration from seasons past or start each collection with a fresh lens?

RC: We have always drawn inspiration from the highlights of past seasons and built on it and, at the same time, started something fresh to give a little bit of push to the brand to grow.

TB: What were your favourite pieces of this season? To see the final product of or to create? I really loved the blue poncho/top that had the 3D texture all over it.

RC: I like the blue cypress 3D printing poncho top and it’s always the design and making process which is exciting!

TB: As the shows are getting bigger, is it easier or more difficult to find the balance between that commercial variety/ viability and sustainable production?

RC: At times, achieving a specific design effect in clothing can be challenging while maintaining sustainability.

TB: A lot of the audience reading, I’m sure, don’t know all that goes into making a presentation happen. Who are the stars you want to shout out BTS?

RC: My entire team, especially my producer (Luka Dijan), plays a crucial role in coordinating everyone to ensure the event runs smoothly.

TB: How do you want the Ray Chu customer to feel wearing this collection? And how did that affect your casting decisions?

RC: We strive to help our customers embrace their best selves while staying true to who they are. When it comes to casting, we welcome everyone, regardless of background or identity.

Despite the dwindling media capital for London Fashion Week, Ray Chu and his brand continue to shine by leading each decision surrounding the show, with the same creativity that is used to create the pieces themselves. The intricately and thought-out designs paired with the diversity of the models showcasing them keeps the brand fresh and rising above the challenges that is the ever evolving fashion week landscape.