4 Chinese Designers to get you fired up this Chinese New Year of the Dragon
By Ruth Harding-Brown
7th February 2024
On the 10th of February many will celebrate the beginning of the new Chinese Year, representing the year of the dragon. It is always daunting to draw a previous year to a close and look ahead to the next however with a new season comes a new opportunity for budding designers to step into the spotlight. Before we burst into a new Chinese year and subsequent fashion season, I wanted to take a look at which upcoming Chinese designers will be ones to watch as a result of their originality and undoubted creative capacity.
From 2021 a plethora of Chinese designers erupted onto the fashion scene, captivating young and old audiences with their unique vision and creativity. These designers, by 2024, appear to be stronger and more defined than ever. Taking a look at a few named designers and their Spring Summer ‘24 collections, one can predict that this next year of the dragon is destined to produce more inspired and artistic talent.
r.l.e
One designer, making a fervent effort to tackle the current climate crisis, of which fashion unfortunately plays a vital role, is ensuring that her designs are sustainable. The fashion brand r.l.e has designed their own yarn which is used to craft womenswear, accessories, and bags and is created from fabrics previously rejected during the manufacturing process of other clothes. Qixin Zhang, creative director and founder of r.l.e, has the admirable aspiration for her brand to become completely waste-free as the company progresses. Qixin was born in China, however the r.l.e AW24 and SS24 collection was presented at London Fashion Week with the inspiration being taken from a variety of pink and purple flowers.
I greatly was impressed with the angelic, almost bridal collection. With examples of strong details including a top studded with hand-crafted ribbon bows or a sequin headpiece and the theme of elegance and femininity is prevalent throughout the collection. For me, r.l.e SS24 is an expression of female sexual exploration coupled with graceful sophistication and I’m ready to see how this brand takes over and changes the world of fashion.
2. Ruirui Deng
Another brand which was curated in 2021, is based on the manifestation of myth about alien mermaids arriving on Earth to explore art and life. Ruirui Deng debuted last year during Paris Fashion Week with the materials all being produced in China and being finally assembled in their London workshop. This includes a signature lace and other unique designs. Designer Rui Deng graduated from Central Saint Martins with her final collection taking inspiration from the Dutch artist Hieronymus Bosch, a 20th century artist whose artwork could be described as chaotic and even slightly gruesome, and her SS24 collection is a stunning example of the beauty of contrasting colours and layering fabrics to create new shapes.
Through this expression of reconstructed beauty Rui Deng cuts out as seamlessly as she sews on to present spirited necklines and dynamic hemlines with fabrics including mesh, silk and lace merged into one invention. Deng’s mission is, ‘to embrace futuristic cultural exploration and engage with peoples’ future,’ and is definitely one to watch for AW25 upcoming shows.
3. Louis Shengtao Chen
A unique SS24 Shanghai fashion show was by Louis Shengtao Chen. Created in 2021, LSC aims to redefine luxury using an experimental approach instilling an ever-evolving ode to the celebration of life, beauty, and dreams. Louis, the designer, graduated from Central Saint Martins and in 2023 was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize semi-finalist. The brand, ‘aims at challenging the traditional notion of glamour,’ and the SS24 definitely did not fall short. With striking silhouettes, the pieces are vibrant, daring, and electrifying and the eclectic mix of piercing sequined gowns, soft and delicate mesh and funky denim creates an atmosphere of unpredictability, bringing some life to the Shanghai stage. Strong themes of fierce femininity shine through and we are invited to see the beauty in bold.
This brand is my personal favourite and I’m ready for Louis to unleash fire in this coming year of the dragon.
4. Simone Rocha
Although these three fresh brands bred a wave of excitement during the Spring Summer 2024 fashion show season, the Chinese designer who generated the highest Earned Media Value and which is a front runner brand having sprung from Chinese Irish designer in 2010, is Simone Rocha. When speaking about her heritage Rocha explains that ‘[her] dad (fashion designer John Rocha) is from Hong Kong, [her] mum from Ireland but [her] granddad is actually from Macau – that’s why [they’re] called Rocha.” Although Rocha visits Hong Kong every year and graduated with a BA from The National College of Art and Design in Dublin, she has presented her collections at London Fashion Week since 2010. Arguably it could be difficult for the Simone Rocha brand to differentiate itself from its ‘father brand,’ however Rocha has made her own unique style which is sharper and more edgy that that of her fathers as she experiments with shapes, and presents fabrics hanging, draping, or even piling over each other.
The SS24 collection exhibited bold shapes, with a larger-than-life bow adorning one of the pieces, and demonstrates the dichotomy between chic vs street style. Rocha now appears to dominate in the field of Chinese designers, however, who is to say that the new year won’t bring some surprises?
Coming to the end of a fashion season is always thought-provoking as it brings a reason to look at which trends or styles dominated, influenced, and overwhelmed us - be it ballet flats or animal print. Not only is it curious to look back but we can also be excited for what is to come as we restart the cycle of AW and SS. This Chinese new year of the dragon will undoubtedly bring more from the brilliant designers we already know but more importantly I can’t wait for who is yet to be revealed.